Shoppers and shopkeepers

From the individual attention customers receive in clothing and department stores to the crowds of people milling around in the streets outside tiny storefronts , going shopping in Kerala always yielded a surprise.

Our first night we visited a textile shop, where custom-made clothing made from bolts of silks and cottons arranged by colors competed with cheap ready-made garments sized to fit any tiny Indian woman. We were immediately greeted by our own personal clerk, who quickly sized up the situation and took us upstairs for a bigger selection. Everyone was eager to know why the American was buying a saree.

Then off to a department store, Big, where earrings and skirts competed for shelf space with washcloths and plastic wear- Palakkad's own Walmart.

One more stop at the pharmacy, a storefront shop with locked glass cases where the worker counted out the number of capsules required and placed them in the paper sack for his customers. Ever heard of glucosamine? Nope, not here- must be a Western preparation.

A day later, we went to the tailor, a young fashion deisgner with her own store and employees. Like a design on a sample? Of course, she will make it for you. Just choose your favorite fabric- be careful of the polyester in this summer heat, though. Stand still for the measuring- every angle and length- and it will be ready.... okay... tomorrow.... for special customers Just be back by 5, closing time.

On my last night, we shopped at a souveneir store. The requisite Kerala boat and theatre masks individually, slowly, carefully wrapped in paper, and then in hand, we pressed on to the grocery in search of sandalwood soap.

There, crammed next to the other toiletries, were the bars - just everyday hand soap, nothing special, wrapped in a cost-saving multi-pack, looking like a package of Dial, but exuding that heady scent that whispered, "I am India."

But it all is India. The press of curious people, the unexpected bargains, the waft of exotic scents- no wonder the streets are filled with shoppers every night of the week.